Bike died and lights wont come on? Won’t start back up? Battery dead?

The second most common downfall on a Honda is the charging system.



If you are experiencing the symptoms listed above, it’s highly possible that your charging system has failed, more specifically, the regulator / rectifier (referred to as “reg/rec”) located on the right side of the sub frame has either cooked itself or the connector that plugs into it.

The OEM reg/rec has a tendency to get very hot causing the electrical connectors to corrode or melt, aftermarket reg/rec’s are available to remedy this problem - they are equipped with cooling fins to keep operating temperatures lower.

While the reg/rec is the most common failure, it is possible that your stator (alternator) could also be faulty.

The stator is located on the inside of the “stator cover” which is the left side engine case cover. If your charging system is failing after dropping your bike on the left side, it’s possible to have damaged the stator.



ELECTRICAL TROUBLESHOOTING / TESTING PROCEDURES

 

this is a great post ive know a lot of persons having this rectifier issue on the CBR f2.

now the problem on my bike is that i got the new Rectifier.. but the last owner CUt the cables so.. i dont know what colors goes in what pin.. (no socket )

so .. is there any chance you guyz can take a picture of it? so i can see where the yellow cable goe to what pin on the rectifier?, etc?.

Thanks a lot guys.

a single pic would help me a lOT. and ai bet to many other viewers.

(i hope i made myself clear, since my English is not very good , sorry)

 

hard back haynes manual has color wiring diagrams. plus e1 should have a manual.

 

I dont believe that there are any yellow wires?



https://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-tech-93/regulator-rectifier-r-r-problem-solved-27739/
Identifying wires is easy:

Honda Suzuki
3 white( alternator) 3 black
1 Red ( positive)1 black/red
1 green( negative)1 black/white

 

ok so im having charging issues, rode the bike for about an hour and it dies got it back started got it home and check the voltage of the battery it was at 11.20 went and bought a new battery anyway well it did the same thing. so talked to a few people and they told me to get it running and disconnect the positive end of the battery and if it dies its probably the rectifier so i did it and it dies order a new rectifier and it comes in on monday i put it in and the bike runs perfect i disconnect the positive end to the battery and it stays running so i think problem solved, rode it all day and night monday rode it a couple hours on tuesday and a couple hours today, then it dies again take it home get it started and disconnect the positive end of the battery and it dies. what are the chances of the rectifier getting burnt out after a couple days of riding or is it just the stator

 

I have a similar prob with my battery voltage running down. I haven't replaced the stator or rectifier but i'm leaning more towards the stator being the prob. let me know how yours works out

 

I just had a factory rectifier die on me so took the opportunity to replace it with something better as the stock items get very hot and burn out as there are no heat dissapating fins. I upgraded it to a mosfet type rather than the shunt type as standard as they are more efficient apparently. I sourced mine from a 2008 Kawasaki ZX6R.It was a FHO16AA model rectifier. The only difference is the kawasaki has an extra small black wire that isnt used on the CBR600. This can be cut off. Now getting 14.7v from idle-5000rpm and 14.7v just off idle with the lights on.A brilliant write up on the mod can be found here. It helped me a lot.

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html

 

would putting in integrated tailights give me more of a chance of my r\r going out? my battery keeps dying after i installed it

 

So that's why my right a$$ cheek was getting hot when I rode my bike without the seat lol! Great post!

 

Checking the Stator delivered Voltage (IE: Checking beyond just a short):

Hook a car battery up to your bike, since the bike battery won't be enough to run the bike for a while on it's own. Unplug the Regulator Rectifier.

You'll want to measure volts AC, and you'll want to measure between the yellow (stator) lines (the connector that went into the R/R has 3 yellow lines that all come form the Stator). Measure them on at a time to check the voltage between all of them. You'll want to check volts AC between all of them at given RPM's. Check the volts AC at idle, then at 3500 or so (3000 to 4000 is fine) and then check in at 7000 or so RPM.

You SHOULD be getting very very similar volts AC between all of the legs at a given RPM. You should be seeing around 60volts ac at 7000 rpm, but the actual number delivered is somewhat less important than having all of the stator legs delivering similar voltages.

Be sure to check continuity between stator leg and ground, if there is a measurable amount of resistance, you've got a grounded out stator leg, and thus a faulty stator probably. (This is in the test above)

At this point, you will have trouble shot the Stator. You can tell if one leg of the stator is under delivering voltage, or you can tell if you have a leg shorted, and if you actually need to be concerned with the stator or not.


It's all pretty easy to check with even a cheap-o harbor freight multi-meter.